
Like most people, I’m busy. I’m also a part-time cycling instructor when time permits. Though life often gets in the way, I was determined to get out more, to get off the sofa and venture outside my comfort zone. Surely there had to be a better way to see the countryside?
I made a decision, I was going bikepacking. It felt like a natural progression after riding so many trails just outside my front door. I roped a friend to join me on my mini-adventure and after countless planning meetings at the pub, we decided to dip our proverbial toe into a coastal challenge.

Bikepacking is a self-sufficient, carry-everything-you-need, kind of thing. We packed the truck and headed to the North Wales coast. I have fond memories of my childhood holidays in Fairbourne, which sits at the mouth of the Mawddach Estuary, close to Eryri National Park.


We arrived at our start point, a designated campsite. It wasn’t exactly wild…with toilets and running water on hand. Luckily, the weather improved through the evening and after a good night’s sleep, we set off. We crossed the Barmouth Estuary Bridge, the longest timber viaduct in Wales and one of the oldest still in regular use in the UK. Our destination was the town of Harlech, though not before stopping for a full Welsh in Barmouth. This self-sufficient thing was turning out to be surprisingly easy.



The plan was to sleep on the beach in Harlech, but according to the lady in the ice cream shop, the powers that be have spotters who regularly wake you at stupid o’clock and move you on. So we opted for another campsite on our return journey. This time the water on tap, was cold, we were really roughing it! Our first “off-grid” bikepacking adventure wasn’t quite as off-grid as planned, but we all have to start somewhere.
What we did learn is that you can’t just rock up and camp anywhere in England and Wales. The 2003 Land Reform Act allows wild camping in Scotland, but elsewhere you need to do your homework, plan ahead and prepare.


Find a location off the beaten track, where you’re unlikely to be disturbed or moved on. Choose a durable surface to camp, dispose of your waste properly, leave what you find, minimise campfires, respect the wildlife and lastly be considerate of others, remember the old chestnut: Cause no damage, leave no trace.

One final piece of advice, take a few spare sheets of toilet paper, it runs out fast on a busy campsite.
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Mud & Memories by Andrew Hackett Photography © 2026
